Most skincare creams on the market today are oil-in-water emulsions. This means the main base is water, with tiny droplets of oil suspended in it. These formulations often evaporate quickly, giving a light feel, but they can leave the skin dehydrated and exposed if the barrier is compromised.
Dr. Spiller’s HYTEC™ Emulsion System uses a water-in-oil structure; the reverse. In these formulations, water is encapsulated inside a continuous oil phase, mimicking the skin’s natural hydrolipid film (the protective barrier made of sweat, sebum, and skin cells).
Did You Know?: The Skin is Waterproof
Here’s the critical insight- your skin is naturally water-resistant.
The outermost layer of your skin, the stratum corneum, is made of dead skin cells embedded in a lipid matrix. This structure acts like a "brick and mortar" wall: the cells are the bricks, and the lipids (fats) are the mortar. This lipid barrier is hydrophobic, meaning it repels water.
That means water-heavy products often sit on the surface or evaporate, offering short-term relief but little deep hydration or repair. In contrast, water-in-oil emulsions can better penetrate and protect, because they speak the same "language" as your skin; lipid first.
The Skin Barrier & Why It's Everything
Your skin barrier isn't just about hydration. It's your immune defense system, shielding you from bacteria, allergens, pollutants, and environmental stress.
A compromised skin barrier can lead to:
- Increased sensitivity
- Redness and inflammation
- Dehydration
- Breakouts
- Premature aging
That’s why barrier repair is at the heart of everything we do at That Skin Clinic. And why Dr. Spiller’s biomimetic formulas matter.
The Evidence: Water-in-Oil Supports Barrier Function
Several studies support the superior ability of water-in-oil (W/O) formulations to reinforce the skin barrier:
1. A 2012 study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science found that W/O emulsions are more occlusive than oil-in-water, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and supporting the barrier over time [1].
2. A 2015 review in Dermatitis emphasised that moisturisers containing lipids mimicking the skin’s natural structure, such as ceramides and fatty acids in oil-rich bases are more effective at restoring barrier function in compromised skin than water-based lotions [2].
3. A 2017 study in Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology found that W/O emulsions are better suited for atopic and dry skin types, providing both longer-lasting hydration and improved skin elasticity compared to traditional O/W formulations [3].
These findings align with Dr. Spiller’s philosophy and the reason we choose it for our clinic.
Additional Benefits of Water-in-Oil Emulsions
- Delayed Evaporation: The oil layer prevents water from evaporating off the skin, delivering longer-lasting hydration.
- Deeper Delivery: Oil acts as a carrier to transport active ingredients deeper into the skin.
- Soothing & Non-Irritating: No harsh emulsifiers or alcohols needed to bind the product, reducing the risk of sensitivity.
- Lipid Mimicry: Closely mimics the skin’s natural lipid barrier, making it ideal for reactive, dry, or post-treatment skin.
Why We Use Dr. Spiller at That Skin Clinic
At That Skin Clinic, we’re not just selling skincare, we’re rebuilding your skin’s health.
Dr. Spiller’s biomimetic, water-in-oil formulas:
- Help restore your skin's natural barrier after treatments like laser, needling, or peels
- Support sensitive or inflamed skin
- Deliver powerful active ingredients without disrupting the microbiome
- Offer lasting hydration, not a quick fix
Whether you’re dealing with acne, rosacea, premature aging or post-procedure sensitivity, your barrier is the foundation. And we treat it that way, with real science, not hype.
If you want more education on skincare for your skins health or have any questions, book for a complimentary skin consultation today!
